We went on three cycling holidays in France — here's what we learned on each one

Route planning was straightforward as the road network is minimal. Accommodation was also easy as choices are limited on the sparsely populated islands. Sadly, the trip was pandemically postponed in 2020 and 2021 and so, finally, in May 2022, off we set.

We loaded our panniers and used them as luggage on the (large) plane to Edinburgh, (regular) bus to Glasgow, and (tiny) plane to Barra, complete with spectacular beach landing. Inevitably, this being our first big tour, we packed way more than we needed and had to lug all that extra weight for 300km. 

We set out early each morning, soaking in the unique atmosphere of the Western Isles and taking plenty of detours along the way. Each evening’s accommodation was different, from small hotels to glamping pods, bothies to B&Bs. We took food and drink where we found it and hit the hay early, tired but happy and excited for what the next stage might bring.

We averaged around 50km a day at a relatively easy pace — around 15 km/h. This gave us the space and time to lose ourselves on our break, to totally disconnect from those daily interactions and distractions, and focus just on the moment and the road ahead.

We were surprised at how mindful the holiday was, how enjoyable the cycling (even that really steep hill we had to climb in a howling headwind), and the huge sense of achievement when we hit the endpoint — the beautiful Stevenson lighthouse at the Butt of Lewis. This was the type of holiday for us.

When we arrived back home, we immediately started planning for 2023, with France as the destination. We are lucky to live just 15km from Ringaskiddy Ferry Port with it’s twice-weekly service to Roscoff. This time, we would have our own bikes and just cycle to the ferry and roll off in France for a two-week tour.

Planning these trips is a big part of the fun. How far will we get? Where will we stop each day? How many metres do we have to climb (the less the better, from my point of view)?

Eurovelo 1 was the route we chose.

You can see EV1 signs all along the Wild Atlantic Way and it is easily accessible in France too, starting in Roscoff and running all the way down the west coast to Handaye, on the Spanish border. We did about half of the route, finishing in Tranche sur Mer with about 700km under our belts. We had decided to travel as far south as we could, then train back to Morlaix (the closest main station to Roscoff) and cycle the short distance back to the ferry. Again we overpacked but with a good bit less than the previous year.

Even though we had done this the year before, it wasn’t without trepidation, as this trip was a lot more complex. However, armed with a new bike computer with all the stages loaded onto it, we took to the French highways. Hilariously, we made most of our wrong turns in the first hour off the ferry.

One early part of the EV1 takes you across a rocky beach and the tide was in. “How could this be the way?” I thought, as I hopped off and pushed the bike through the gnarly segment. There would be quite a few more of those, adding some frisson to the experience.

Again, our accommodation was varied, from hostels to hotels, chambres d’hôtes to quaint B&Bs. Staying in 10 different places, we explored every town, rated every croissant, tasted plenty of wine, and ate our fill at every meal — after all, we had worked it off in advance.

Some of the many standout memories include pausing for a frothy cup of cider in the sun on the Nantes-Brest canal, passing the endless lines of stooped moule pickers along the coast, and becoming honorary home fans at a La Rochelle-supporting wine bar for their rugby final against Leinster.

For 2024, we only had 10 days, allowing two for the ferry. A shorter route was on the cards so we decided on Roscoff to Mont St Michel, following the Côte de Granit Rose of Northern Brittany. This route was much more climby, with steep descents into the coastal villages and towns, followed, inevitably, by steep ascents out again. But we made it, enjoyed it, and 2025 is already in the pipeline: Eurovelo 6, along the Loire from Nevers to Nantes.

Planning for “The Wine Tour” has commenced and, no, it doesn’t just involve drinking the stuff. We hope to take two and a half weeks this year, stopping for an overnight in Paris and including some shorter days on the bike so we can explore the many villages and vineyards.