Danny Africano: 'We ran out of water, got lost in the rainforest, and we had to be rescued'

Danny Africano M&MT wx080325
Galway-based Danny Africano was born into a world where food was everything. With his Italian father and a childhood spent between Ireland and Italy, it’s no surprise that the new recipient of a Michelin star found his way into the kitchen. Now, as the head chef and owner of Lignum, travel is, first and foremost, all about discovering new flavours. From rustic meals in Vietnam to late-night feasts in Barcelona, he shares some of his most unforgettable culinary adventures.
I was quite fortunate growing up. My grandparents would take us to Italy every summer, and we’d spend our holidays with all our Italian cousins.
But the best holiday as a young kid was with my Italian grandfather. I looked up to him so much, and he loved food and wine. We went on incredible trips together, including one to Egypt. I have vivid memories of sitting by the pool while he ordered the most amazing grilled fish and seafood. Those moments really stuck with me. Food has always been a big part of my life, and I think much of that comes from him.

When [my wife] Molly and I were living in Australia we knew we’d be moving back to Ireland, so wanted to travel [around] before we left. With barely any money, we rented the cheapest van and decided to drive the east coast from Cairns down to Sydney.
My phone didn’t work, and Molly’s barely did either. We ran out of water, got lost in the rainforest, and we had to be rescued at one point. It was one of those trips where you either make it through or completely lose it. But we survived — just about. And funny enough, right after that, we opened Lignum ( lignum.ie). If we could get through that, we figured we could handle anything.

Vietnam really surprised me. We went as a family, my parents, my sister, and I, and did all the usual tourist spots. But then we went completely off the beaten path into the mountains, and that’s where it really hit me how different life was there.
People lived so simply, so separate from what we consider ‘normal’. The food was something else. In these tiny villages, they’d cook over wood fires using just two pots, whatever they had around them. The flavours were incredible, and it showed me how simplicity can be just as amazing as high-end cuisine.

I’m biased because my dad is from there but Naples, right, is an incredible city. People always think of Naples and say, ‘Oh, the Mafia, it’s dangerous,’ but they have no idea. Dublin is more dangerous. The food scene in Naples is unreal, and Neapolitans are so proud of where they come from. The city is built on a history that most people don’t even realise. The energy, the people, the food — it’s like nowhere else. It’s a place that has transformed over the years.
My favourite city to visit is Barcelona. It has that perfect mix of modern and old, and the food culture is amazing. The bars, the restaurants —it’s a dream for someone who loves food. We hit the ground running every time we go, eating the minute we land, not stopping until we leave. What I love most is how late people eat. You can be in a restaurant at one in the morning. That’s something I really miss in Ireland, especially in Galway. In Spain, Italy, and places like Bangkok, people don’t even come out until 11 at night. You finish a long shift in the kitchen, and you can still go out and have incredible food. That’s something I wish we had here.

Italy. It’s just mind-blowing when you think about cities like Florence, where the Renaissance began. We wouldn’t even be able to recreate it today. I’ve lived in New York and Melbourne and, while they’re amazing cities, they don’t have that kind of history. Florence, for me, is one of the most beautiful places in the world.
Eating. For me, travel is about food. My family are the same — we don’t go places to lie on a beach; we go to explore, visit markets, and try new flavours.
Every time I travel, I bring back ingredients I can’t find here. It’s about immersing yourself in the culture and seeing what’s special about that place. Even living in Melbourne, I made it a thing to take the kitchen team out to a 24/7 ramen bar after service. Those experiences stay with you. It’s not just about high-end dining, it’s about the places locals love, the food that tells a story about where you are.

Molly and I got married last August, and we didn’t have time for a proper honeymoon, so South America is top of the list. We’ve done Australia and a bit of Asia but I want to go and eat proper Mexican food in Mexico, see Argentina, and experience the chaos of Mexico City. You don’t really know a cuisine until you’ve had it in its own country. I love South American food but I want to experience it the way it’s meant to be.