Hotel review: Old-school energy and delightful views make this Kerry classic a real find

• 10/10

Style and design

While being distracted by those views steering down the driveway, you’d almost be forgiven for not clocking the exterior of the hotel, which is a rather anonymous edifice. The lake-facing rear of the hotel feels less stark. However, given its various extensions over the decades, it seems to be painted in mustardy hues.

Inside, the property, which has been operated by the Huggard family for over a century, is loaded with traditional character. It’s refreshing to experience a hotel so unapologetically itself in a world where many properties are singing off the same Pinterest board. Expect ruby-red carpets, classical furniture, gallery corridors, and a smattering of taxidermy. To many, this may feel dated but there is a charm to it.

• 7/10

Service

Warm Kerry service permeates throughout, from reception and dining areas to other staff I meet around the hotel. 

It must be noted that check-in at the hotel is 4pm — a time which became the ‘new normal’ during covid but feels a little more redundant now with swifter changeovers. 

Perhaps it’s to manage guests’ expectations too, however, as my room was available a good hour before that time.

• 8.5/10

Guest rooms

Room categories in the hotel range from entry-level standard woodland rooms to lake-view junior suites. 

Midweek B&B rates start from €139, or from €159 for lake-view rooms, which is reasonable considering the world-class location and the very decent breakfast. 

I stayed in one of the deluxe four-poster bedrooms, which command a top-floor aspect and feature a semi-enclosed balcony overlooking the lake. 

Along with that statement bed, the room has a vanity desk, seating area, and separate lounge with electric fireplace. 

A decent en suite offers twin sinks, shower, bath, and products by the Handmade Soap Company. 

It’s a comfortable room, though the coffee and mocha colour scheme is a little dark when I feel lighter tones would offer more of a sanctuary feel.

• 8/10

In-room perks

Tea and machine coffee is provided. Bottled water isn’t provided but rather a carafe, which can be filled at each floor’s water fountain. 

This may be a nuisance to some but, in a world of over-hydrated hotel rooms, I find it a plus.

• 7/10

On the menu

Executive head chef Noel Enright brought home the bacon from the Irish Hotel & Catering Gold Medal awards just last week, winning the prestigious top accolade of best chef in Ireland. His menus can be experienced throughout the hotel, not least the Castlelough Restaurant, where a fine dining menu is available for €70 (€60 if booked as part of a package). 

Dishes include seared pigeon breast with mulled wine gel and game chips, and roast haunch of wild Kerry venison with pickled blackberry and chestnut crumble — fine dishes but some of the presentation and, indeed, the restaurant itself, feels a little retro.

Elsewhere, a more casual lakeside bistro is a popular dining spot, as is the Devil’s Punchbowl bar.

Breakfast offers an extensive hot and cold buffet and staple hot dishes cooked to order. It’s a very fine offering which would rival a five-star experience.

• 8.5/10

Activities and amenities

Beyond availing of the stunning grounds (which also feature their own lakeside fortifications, illuminated at night), the hotel has ramped up its wellness offering with a new thermal suite featuring a Himalayan salt sauna, steam room, experiential shower pods, plus an outdoor hot tub and infinity pool overlooking the wilds. There’s a €20pp charge for 90 minutes.

• 8/10

• The Lake Hotel
• Killarney, Co. Kerry
• lakehotelkillarney.ie
• The Hotel Examiner was a guest of The Lake Hotel.