Long weekend in Berlin: Heavy history, electric energy and the city's sexiest hotel

My visit to Berlin is nothing short of astonishing, writes Jillian Bolger

Sat, 01 Feb, 2025 - 02:00

Jillian Bolger

I remember the night as clear as anything: November 9, 1989 sitting watching TV as the Berlin Wall was breached and destroyed under cover of night. I was glued to the screen, a 16-year-old studying both German and history for my Leaving Cert and astonished at the drama unfolding. The ultimate symbol of the Cold War, cutting off Allied-occupied West Berlin from East Berlin and East Germany, the impenetrable 12 foot barrier had divided the city politically, socially and economically since 1961.

One of the most significant global events of my teenage life, the Fall of the Berlin Wall began a fascination with Berlin, a city of Eastern socialism and Western affluence, and I grew up wondering what it would be like to visit such a fragmented place.

But Berlin wasn’t hip 36 years ago. It was historic. It was intriguing. It was evolving. But it had many years of growth and healing to do before it would ascend the ranks to become Europe’s coolest city and a tourist hotspot.

Nowadays, it outranks Paris and London in the hip stakes, a melting pot of vibrancy and creativity where the culture, music, architecture, art and food scenes continue to attract young digital nomads and creatives making the German capital their home.

I couldn’t have guessed it in 1989, but I would end up studying German at university and living there for over a year and a half. After five months in Munich, I moved north to Hamburg where I would spend the next four summers working as a student.

Like all ports, Hamburg is a free-spirited city with an edgy, progressive energy that I loved. In the 90s, it was the poster boy for German creativity, its liberal and gritty spirit holding my attention. Never once was I tempted to travel west to Berlin while living there.

Then, for some inexplicable reason, I graduated with a German degree and never set foot in the country again. Until 2024. Where once German was seen as the language of progress and success, I never spoke it again, beyond a few holidays in Switzerland.

Aside from an opportunity to resurrect my questionable language skills, my visit to Berlin is nothing short of astonishing. The landmark buildings all roll off the tongue with strange familiarity: the Reichstag, Checkpoint Charlie, Brandenburg Gate, and of course the infamous Berlin Wall.

A wall with photographs of people that died trying to cross the Berlin Wall during the years it existed.

We base ourselves in a cool little boutique hotel, Provocateur, in the upmarket neighbourhood of Charlottenburg, just off Kurfürstendamm, a wide boulevard lined with designer stores, known colloquially as Ku’damm.

It’s a perfect spot for joining the City Circle hop-on hop-off bus tour, something I highly recommend. Berlin is famously spread out and a top-floor seat on the yellow double-deckers that ply the route will give you a bird’s eye view of the city’s architectural treasures — of which there are countless — plus a potted history via your headset as you approach each attraction.

Over a long weekend, we bus one day and walk and use public transport the next, giving us a good feel for the city as we people-watch, refuel with coffee and tick off some of the city’s landmarks.

Over the weekend we’ll gorge on nostalgia at The DDR Museum, experiencing life in former East Berlin through realistic sets and interactive displays. We’ll marvel at the magnificent Berlin Cathedral, an ornate, light-flooded confection dating back to the 15th century that offers sweeping vistas from its dome high above the city. We’ll visit the imposing Humboldt Forum, a striking juxtaposition of Baroque palace and modern architecture that’s a hub for art, culture and science. Here, the clever Global Berlin exhibition will immerse us in Berlin’s past, present and future, soliciting our opinions as we exit each themed space. As exhibitions go, this one is wildly creative and an irresitible way to connect visitors to the essence of the city.

Our weekend will be underpinned by pleasure and pain as history seeks to challenge us. From Checkpoint Charlie, the notorious crossing point between the city’s two sides, and the longest remaining part of the Berin Wall, all 1.3 kilometres now adorned by murals, we’ll step back in time.

Checkpoint Charlie is the notorious crossing point between Berlin’s two sides,

And for a sobering end to an unforgettable day, we will visit the Topography of Terror, once the site of the SS Control Command in Nazi Germany. Today, a stark modern building houses a startling permanent exhibition that charts the workings and horrors committed by the Gestapo and SS in the country’s darkest period. The photographs and stories will haunt us and leave us grappling with emotions.

On Sunday morning, we walk to one of the capital’s many flea markets; this one at Bode Museum, specialising in antiques, old books and furniture. I have always loved the buzz of a German flea market as they lift the lid on ordinary lives. We wander aimlessly in the bracing morning air, perusing the eclectic mix of tat and treasure, from ugly ornaments to Turkish rugs.

From here we walk the banks of the Spree to the iconic Brandenburg Gate and find ourselves dwarfed by its stature, every bit as impressive and imposing as we’d hoped. The sky is blue, the tourists upbeat and as I look at the wide Strasse des 17 Juni stretching into the distance I am reminded of old black and white footage of Allied troops marching down this long avenue, then called Charlottenburger Chaussee, in the Berlin Victory Parade of 1945, celebrating the end of the Second World War. They trooped victorious right past where we stand.

There’s no escaping Berlin’s past, and, as first-time visitors, we are eager to explore it. Over the weekend we walk miles, taking plenty of breaks, seeking out great coffee at Humboldt Forum’s café and at Ooh Cookies, where we perch on high stools in the large window. Resting tired legs, we watch Berliners go about their day while we scoff warm and crumbly pistachio cookies.

Berlin’s dining scene is truly exciting and we mix it up with a night of noodles on Kantstrasse, a lively strip with some of the city’s best Asian dining spots. On our second night we’ve a table booked in a traditional wine bar, Kurpfalz Weinstuben. A restaurant since 1935, it’s full of Teutonic character though it’s hard not to imagine some of the unsavoury clients that might once have dined here in the early years. Today, the Michelin-recommended tavern serves delicious, rustic food with great German wines — although take my advice and skip the Hand Cheese with Music. The matured sour milk cheese in caraway vinaigrette dish sounded delicious but it’s not something I will be rushing to order again....

Berlin is a city for strolling, for marvelling, for watching, for lingering, for exploring and for remembering. The weight of its history is as poignant as its energy is electric. It is old and youthful, serious and fun, reflective and dynamic.

I don’t know why I waited so long to come, but I do know that it feels good to have Germany back in my life.

Berlin's sexiest hotel

Chic and playful, Provocateur Berlin celebrates Berlin’s naughtier side with its glamorous 1920s bordello style decor and quirky bedroom details. Housed in a 1911 Art Nouveau building, the Parisian style is brought to life through rich velvet drapes, dramatic chandeliers and some unexpected extras.

The Provocateur Mode button in the bedroom will project sexy visuals on your wall, complete with music to get you in the mood. A fun ‘Time to tease’ set by the bed includes sensual toys like feathers. The bordello style is matched by a cool cocktail bar that’s packed with Berlin’s Bright Young Things at the weekend. Fun and frivolous!. Doubles from €121 per night.

Provocateur-hotel.com

Escape notes

Berlin has an excellent public transport network of buses, trams and trains. Purchase a Berlin WelcomeCard at the arrivals hall in Berlin Brandenburg Airport. This tourist card gives you free public transport, a map, and discounts off 180 major sites and attractions. From €26 for 48 hours.

The MuseumsPass offers free entry to over 30 exhibitions and museums. Time slots to the Museum Island and Kulturforum must be booked in advance. Buy your ticket online to avoid queueing, €32, visitberlin.de

The City Circle bus tour arrives every 20-25 minutes across 20 stops, From €29.75, city-circle.de