New York in winter: Where to go and what to see in the city that never sleeps
Winter in New York City
Is New York the greatest city in the world? I think there is little doubt that it is.
No other city is as diverse, with over 600 languages spoken and a world centre for arts and culture, for finance and for education.
When my editor asked me if I wanted to go on a short trip to experience it in winter, I couldn’t possibly refuse.
I left Dublin on a Monday morning via Aer Lingus and had my first experience of flying Business class.
Besides the perks you have heard about such as Champagne on arrival, restaurant level cooking and proper cutlery, and a seat that becomes a bed, it really is a completely different experience.
My abode for the trip was the Fitzpatrick’s Hotel Manhattan on Lexington Avenue and 57th Street, just metres away from Bloomingdales, Tiffany’s, Carnegie Hall and Central Park.
With its great location, many Irish staff members and photos of CEO John Fitzpatrick with everyone from Leo to Bono, it’s become a real home from home for Irish tourists.
A solid pint of Guinness can be had in The Fitz bar too but better still was a Manhattan which was generous and nicely balanced – worth its $17. My room was a good size and well designed. This felt closer to five than four star.
I had been to New York before but this was my first visit in a decade.
In all those visits I had never managed to find time to climb the Empire State Building, although I had looked up from ground level at its splendid Art Deco architecture.
Built between 1930 and 1931 it was the tallest building in the world until 1970 at 1,240 feet (not including the spire).
Given its location in the centre of Manhattan it really is the best place to view New York from above, short of hiring a helicopter.
A working building with tenants such as Linkedin and JCDecaux it is over two million square feet and has its own Zip code.
Recent renovations added two floors of museums and in 2024 it was voted Top Visitor Attraction in the World by TripAdvisor.
It felt slightly surreal to be walking around the observation deck on the 86th floor, where Meg Ryan was supposed to meet Tom Hanks.
As you would expect, the views of Manhattan Island and neighbouring boroughs are spectacular; you really do feel on top of the world.
Tourists can go higher to the 102nd floor observation deck but I didn’t linger long for fear of vertigo.
Staff throughout the building could not have been more helpful and there are dozens of photo opportunities including the chance to sit on King Kong’s hand, surely the building’s most famous visitor.
A trip to New York would not be complete without ‘taking in a show’ and there is no more famous theatre show in the world than Hamilton.
A phenomenon since it first opened, I had seen the filmed version on Disney+, but it could not compare to seeing it in on Broadway in its original home of the Richard Rogers Theatre 46th Street.
No other city could have created Lin-Manuel Miranda or Hamilton I believe, mixing as it does hip-hop, soul, R&B with classic Broadway show tunes and performed by such a talented cast.
What delighted me most was the physicality and energy of the show with no cast member staying still for more than a few seconds.
You can hear the songs anytime you want, but experiencing them live on Broadway proves a moving, exhilarating and visceral experience.
Last minute tickets can be obtained at Hamiltonthemusical.com and can cost under $150 if you have flexibility.
Broadwayinbound.com is the place to book group tickets at favourable rates.
Manhattan has become incredibly expensive to live in and much of Brooklyn is becoming similarly priced.
Staten Island is a little far and Queens is just too big, so a trip to the Bronx proves an excellent way to experience life in the city as a regular New Yorker.
North of Manhattan the Bronx can be reached by subway but a quicker option is the Metro North Railroad which takes 18 minutes. The Bronx is where Hip-Hop was born and is of course home to Yankee Stadium.
First on your list should be a visit to the Botanical Gardens, a 100 hectare oasis right next to Bronx Zoo.
I was there to see the Holiday Train Show in the beautiful landmark glasshouse that is the centrepiece of the gardens.
For the last 30 years, from November to January, the greenhouse is filled with an elaborate network of toy trains that wend their way through the exotic plants passing dozens of elaborate to-scale recreations of New York’s most famous buildings made from what seems to be bits of twig and moss. Santa is on hand as is mulled wine and savoury bites.
New York is famous for its food culture and while Little Italy in Manhattan feels touristy we found The Real Little Italy in the Bronx thanks to our Bronx born-and-bred guides who also operate the Bronx Beer Hall.
As we walked we kept bumping into friends and relations of theirs and even stopped into their local church, Our Lady of Mt. Carmel, built by Italian immigrants in 1906 and holding services in Italian, Spanish and English.
Our first foodie stop was Joe’s Italian Deli for a fresh mozzarella making demo.
Watching the hand-pulled cheese curds come together and tasting the seconds old silky creamy cheese was genuinely thrilling.
As we watched the deli filled with local construction and office workers buying takeout and sandwiches, I bought smoked scamorza and salami to take home.
Next a visit to Borgatti’s Ravioli and Egg Noodles shop which has been making fresh pasta for three generations and then to Cosenza’s Fish Market for fresh oysters and to watch the blue crabs trying to escape.
Bread from Madonia Bakery next door and then another highlight of the trip – Calabria Pork Store and their famous ‘Sausage Chandelier’ – a few thousand sausages drying from in the ceiling. I bought spicy and regular dried sausage, the quality of both outstanding.
Eventually we reached the Bronx Beer Hall in the centre of the Arthur Avenue Retail Market, opened 84 years ago by Mayor LaGuardia to house former push-cart vendors.
The market these days is a sort of mini English Market and in the centre is a beer hall created by the Puerto Rican Ramirez brothers who are on a mission to revitalise the image of the Bronx.
They made us sandwiches from the produce we had foraged and we washed it down with pints of Italian Pilsner, brewed locally.
The brothers host pop-up shops and events to promote community and local pride in historic Bronx locations.
On my final day in Manhattan there was time for shopping in Greenwich Village and more food tourism with a visit to the Chelsea Market (near where Joni Mitchell wrote ‘Chelsea Morning’).
Housed in a former biscuit factory it retains its industrial feel and is filled with restaurants, food and craft shops. Highlights included a Japanese Curry Beef Taco from Takumi Taco and a proper New York pizza slice from Filaga.
Our tour guide (from Likealocal.com) clearly knew the market and the area and next took us to Market 57 at Pier 57 overlooking the Hudson River for a passionfruit iced tea before we ascended the High Line.
A disused 1930’s rail line elevated 30 feet above the city, it begins in the Meatpacking District and runs for over a mile to 34th Street.
It is free to access and is a pleasing blend of nature and art works that feels remarkably peaceful despite weaving its way through one of the busiest areas of the city (my editor has enjoyed morning runs along it.)
Best of all, you get to view architectural wonders from the likes of Frank Gehry and Zaha Hadid up close.
- Aer Lingus operates two daily flights between Dublin and JFK, and daily flights from Dublin to Newark and from Shannon to JFK. Economy fares from €219 each way and Business class return fares from €1,899 return; aerlingus.com
- Excellent limousine service from JFK to Manhattan; newyorksightseeing.com
- Leslie was a guest of NYC Tourism & Conventions and Aer Lingus; nyctourism.com
